Taro (Elephant Ear)

About Taro

Taro is a tropical foliage plant grown for its large, heart-shaped leaves and strong architectural effect. Each leaf rises on a thick stalk from the base, giving the plant a bold, upright look that quickly adds a lush feel to a pot display.

It works well in warm outdoor containers, sheltered balconies, and indoor spaces where humidity is higher and the foliage can be appreciated up close. In good conditions, the leaves become impressively large and the clump gradually fills out.

Taro grows from a swollen corm below the soil, which helps explain its strong response to warmth, moisture, and feeding. In cooler conditions, growth slows down and the plant may become partially dormant.

How to Care for Taro

Watering

Keep the mix consistently moist to wet, but not sour or stagnant. Water Taro deeply whenever the top half inch (1 cm) of the substrate feels just moist rather than actually dry, and do not let the pot dry out fully.

This plant shows water stress quickly through drooping leaves and brown edges. In warm weather, especially outdoors or in brighter light, watering may be needed very often.

Excess water should still be able to drain away. The goal is a potting mix that stays constantly moist or very damp without remaining stale for days.

Sunlight

Give Taro bright, indirect light to light partial sun. Outdoors, morning sun with afternoon shade or filtered sun through much of the day works well.

In cooler climates, many taro plants can handle more sun if moisture is steady. Indoors, protect the leaves from harsh midday sun through glass, which can scorch them.

Too little light usually leads to smaller leaves and weaker, more elongated stalks, while better light supports broader and sturdier growth.

Temperature

Keep Taro warm, ideally around 68–86°F (20–30°C). It is frost-sensitive and does not respond well to cold, wet soil.

Avoid places where temperatures regularly fall below about 59°F (15°C), especially if the mix is staying very wet. That combination can trigger dieback or dormancy.

In cooler regions, Taro is best treated as a warm-season container plant that goes outside only when nights are reliably mild and comes back under cover before cold weather returns.

Humidity

Taro prefers high humidity. Its large leaves lose moisture quickly and usually look better when the air is moist.

Grouping plants, using a pebble tray with water below the pot, or placing a humidifier nearby can help. In very dry indoor air, brown tips and edges are more likely, though better humidity and steady watering usually improve new growth.

Soil

Use a rich organic mix that holds moisture but still drains. Taro does best in a potting mix that stays damp and fertile without turning into heavy mud.

A practical mix is quality potting soil with added compost and some coarse material such as perlite, fine bark, or grit. The aim is a structure that holds water and nutrients while still allowing air around the roots.

A large sturdy pot with several drainage holes is important.

Feeding & Maintenance

During active growth from spring through late summer, feed Taro every 3–4 weeks with a balanced, diluted fertilizer. It is a heavy feeder and usually responds with more and larger leaves when nutrients are steady.

Wipe dust from the leaves from time to time with a soft damp cloth. Older outer leaves will naturally yellow and die as new ones emerge, and these can be removed cleanly at the base.

Raw plant parts contain irritating calcium oxalate crystals, so keep Taro away from chewing pets and children and wash your hands after handling the sap.